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We headed inland from Exmouth, to Tom Price. (How is old Tom I hear you
ask!) Its a small town on the edge on the Karajini National Park, another highly recommended spot (they all seem to be really).
We drove into Karajini along the extremely corrugated dirt road. Oscar had his first hiccup - when we stopped at the entrance,
the radiator overflow was boiling over and the radiator pipes were collapsed. We were a fair way from civilisation, heading
even further away. We let him cool down, and gave him a good look at.
That seemed to do the trick, cos he worked fine after that!
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| Gorgeous |
In Kajajini we set up camp on the rocksolid ground and set off to explore
Weano Gorge. We looked at the amazingly complicated sign which stated who each walking track was graded, but turned into routes
further on, and the routes had two levels, a route level 2 should only be undertaken with a guide, but this was now a
track grade 6 (under the new system) and a route level1 had been split into grades 4 and 5 - neither of which required a guide,
except in the wet season - and even then only on every second tuesday, after teatime.
We set of (twice, after taking a wrong turn and finding ourselves back in the carpark).
We followed the very pretty, deep gorge for a while, until it narrowed dramatically. The was the start
of Route level 1! To my surprise a little old lady suddenly emerged from it! So we ventured forth and followed the
narrow cleft around corners and through chilly pools of water. We finally emerged at Handrail Pool, a large pool in a circular
chasm in the sunlight. We descended by the namesake handrail, and rope, and discovered clothes and shoes tucked into crevices
in the rock, then people in varying stated of undress emerged from the chasm on the other side in waist deep water. I was
off to explore! Norma and Karl weren't sure, btu came anyway. IT WAS COLD! We swam, waded, scrambled our way along
having great fun. We got as far as a steep drop off to a pool below, very tempted to jump, but was not sure if I would be
able to return. We headed back, and later discovered that we could have continued - shucks!! I was having great fun.
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| I am on top of another big rock! |
But we headed to Hancock Gorge, just round the corner. The sun was setting
and lighting the rocky cliff was a golden red. Lots more scrambling and climbing through some fantastic rock fromations. Again
we reached a drop, this one a bit more dramatic, so wasn't tempted. I did scamper along where some abseiling hooks were to
see how far it went. I could see the gorge finished and opened out into a far larger gorge.
We returned to the car park and to the lookout where you can see this larger gorge, with five others
emptying into it, and even where we would have come out had we followed Weano.
That night we saw a great view, a moon rise! I dont think I've ever watched that before, a full moon
rising up, over australian wilderness!
The next day we visited Joffre falls, and gorge - Fantastic.
The falls were a stepped cascade (with not much water at this time of year) trickling into a vast amphitheatre, with the gorge
running off further below. I had a great time climbing up and down and all over.
Knox Gorge was much more vegetated, and had some brilliantly idyllic pools to swim in. Norma and I
felt like Indiana Jones exploring it from one end to the other (Karl stayed in the carpark having seen enough gorges ?!?)
We explored so much we were running late and bombed down the relentlessly corrugated unsealed road
to try to get to the next campsite. We didn't make it, as the sun went down , but we found the temporary overflow site
so set up there.
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| AAAAAaaaAAaaAAAaaaah! |
We explored Dales Gorge the following day, not quite as dramatic but much
more serene. We didn't swim in the pools, although you could, however since it was an Aboriginal Sacred place, you were asked
to do so quietly and with respect!
And that was Karajini, lots of fun. We drove North. We refueled at 'Auski",
one of the 'Roadhouses' - the only civilisation along the vast stretches of road, offering fuel relief and bladder
relief.
30kms up the road, we had a bit of excitement, the front left tyre strated making a funny noise. A
second later it threw half of its rubber up onto the bonnet and flapped the other half about - a neat trick!!
I pulled over as sedately as I could, which was surprisingly easy - the tyre hadn't actually popped.
Lucky. We changed it with no major hassels and set off to Port Headland where we had to pay through the nose for a new tyre.
We stayed the night on Eighty Mile Beach, after another grueling 20kms of washboard track. The beach
was huge, and superbly lit as the sun went down.
And then to Broome. We had been looking forward to relaxing in Broome,
but having spent over a week in Exmouth it didn't seem as rewarding. It was a nice relaxed town, and we stayed a few days.
My main mission was to visit the post office. I had left my phone charger in the hostle in Perth and asked them to sent it
to Broome. After the weekend I pick up my parcel, with my Motoraloa charger in - and pulled out an Ericson charger! Doh, I
was annoyed, but not as annoyed, I dont think, as the poor guy in Perth whose charger got sent off to Broome!
We did the obligatory Broomey things, including going to the oldest open air cinema, which was fun,
with pizza, popcorn, and the occasional light aircraft!
We stayed at Cable Beach for a couple of days too, a really nice nice beach to sit and do nothing
on, but with some good surf to play around in. And the water was gorgeously warm!
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| Gotta see aaaa Crocodilebye ! |
We had our first encounter with one of the many (vastly many) lethal creatures
in Australia - we went to the Broome crocodile park! Some big critters in there I can tell you!! They had a few brand new
ones (they actually farm them for their skin, and meat- I still haven't tried it yet.) and some big old ones, some Freshwater
Crocs- the not aggressive ones, and several 5 meter Saltwater Crocs -the ones not for cuddling. We went on
the feeding tour, in which the keepers like to wake them with a ball on a rope. Impressive beasties.
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| Sunset over the Boab Tree |
Finally left Broome and headed to the East, towards the Kimbery Region,
home of the legendary Gibb River Road - an unsealed track that is only passablle in the dry season, in a 4x4, and hence the
appeal to go in, all other traffic bypassing the area via the highway to the south. It was obvious Oscar could not cater for
us, however there was a road just a few kilometers along the GibbRiver Road that drops down to the highway, that passes a
couple of interesting natural landmarks, Winjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek. I had read this stretch was possible in a 2 wheel
drive. i spent an infuriating couple of days trying o discover if this was true or not. The tourist info place could only
officially say anything to do with the GRR was 4x4 only, but they girl said it might be possible, she had done it, in a 4x4.
The man next to me said he had driven his 2x4 to winjana, but didn't want to risk going to tunnel creek so turned back with
out looking at the road. Most people just said, 'Oh, my GOD, NO!! Not the Gibb River Road!! Dont go near it with a 2 wheel
drive! We wouldn't even take our 4x4 near it!'. Had they even seen the road, 'No.'
I needed to find someone who had actually driven it and KNEW, it was impossible. I asked a local tough
guy, but he hadn't done it, but said he thinks it has just been graded.
It was very annoying, so I went anyway.
The first part of the Gibb River road was actually sealed and easy-peesy, then it started to get corrugated.
but I had learnt that the faster you go, the less the car vibrates!!
So we eventually rattled into Windjana Gorge, and am I glad we did, it was great!
It is actually an ancient coral reef that has since become a mountain range, and had a gorge worn
through it - this land is OLD!
The gorge was beautiful, the walls had a few marine fossils dotted about, there was a flock
of Corellas (the noisiest bird in the world, especially at 6am) whirling above the river and sandy beaches where umpteen freshwater
crocs were sunning themselves. Quite prehistoric!
Continuing to Tunnel creek was shaky as well, but we had met a guy who had just driven up from the
highway, the road is all graded and smooth from the Creek! (wouldn't take their 4x4 near it - morons!)
Tunnel Creek was fantastic. A cave worn right the way through the reef by a creek, with a huge cathedral-like
entrance leading into the pitch black tunnel. We armed ourselves with torches and ventured in, wading through the creek, home
of all sorts of slimey creatures (we saw an eel) and even crocs have been known to be in there! There were loads of bats in
the cavernous ceiling. I expored a small side passage that had just vomitted a tour group - it was PITCH black!
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| My new mates, Croc and Odile |
 Halfway along the ceiling had collapsed letting sunlight in, and was home
to a colony of flying foxes - they are noisey little beasties, screeching and bickering at each other! At the far end of the
tunnel was an aboriginal rock art painting, and then we retraced our sloshy steps back to the car.
The road south, back to the highway was fine, we even passed the grading machine. However, I think
there is now an extra rattle somewhere underneath Oscar??
We continued to Fitzroy crossing, and were glad to leave the next day, not the most pleasant place
in the world, we stayed put in our campsite, not wanting to venture onto the streets!
In the morning we took a fun little boat trip along Geike Gorge, through the same Reef range, and
saw more crocs and birds.
Halls creek was even less inviting than Fitzroy, but we did meet a friendly Canadian couple who had
an identical Magna to Oscar, but they were selling all of their stuff? Their car was dying. They figured they had about
50kms left in it, and were just going to dump it at the side of the road. They happily told us that if we saw it abandoned
- SCAVENGE!
We left behind them, just incase, but soon overtook them, I hope they make it!
We drove on to Kununarra,via the small town of Wyndam. There was not much
there, but it was the town event of the year - the Wyndham Cup horse Race and annual Ball! We were extremely tempted to stay
and see real rural Australia, but weren't too sure how we would be acepted. And besides, I didn't have a thing to wear!
Kununarra was much more pleasant, and staying in our campsite, we met a great Dutch couple, Saskia
and Paul. We hired a boat for a day and explored the Ord River, and Dam, a most enjoyable trip our, and a bit different.
I wanted to partake in another hiring expedition, namely a 4x4 to the famed
Bungle Bungles (as Alvin said, 'not a place full of camp bears') a National Park, only accessible by a 50km 4x4 drive. I could
not find enough folk to make it viable. I nearly got a lift with an english couple who had a 4x4, but they couldn't squeeze
me in.
So , the only thing left was travelling by thumb.
Early in the morning I set myself up at the side of the road and waited. Nearly everyone passing me
was going to work. Two hours later I was about to give up and fork out for a plane flight over the Bungles (they are a uniquely
shaped mountain range of banded orange and black rock - very impressive from the air) but just then Eric came along. I was
a bit puzzled at first cos he looked just like everyone else going to work in his Ute (pick-up truck). But it turned out we
was from Perth on a 2 week trip around the Kimberley, and was going back down south, via the Bungles! Perfect.
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| The Zippy Zippys |
We drove back down to the National Park turn off and along the 50kms (3
hour!) drive to Catherdral Gorge, and the famed Bee Hive Domes of the Bungle Bungles (interestingly not the aboriginal name
- that is 'Purunulu'). They are weathered domes of layered black and orange rock, rippling along the edge of the range, quite
a sight!
The sun started to go down, but we were on the east of the range. The tips of the tallest rocks went
a great deep orange colour, so we planned to come back tomorrow mornig to see them in the light.
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| Muffin Man at the Bungles! |
We camped at the nearby site (I met the English couple, who were amazed
to see I made it!) Then returned to the Cathedral gorge in the morning. We were hoping the gorge would be in sunlight, but
it is so narrow I dont think it gets any sun, but for an hour at midday!, still very inpressive, a narrow gorge opening out
to a vast, deep amphitheatre at the head, where a (dry) waterfall has carved a huge pipe down from above.
We admired the domes in the different light, then drove to the north of the range and visited the
gorges there, Mini Palms, FrogHole, and Echidna Chasm. Mini Palms was beautiful, with palm trees and orange walls everywhere.
The rock walls are weird, it is conglomerate rock, made up of millions of pebbles compacted together in sandstone. I have
never seen a mountain made out of smooth, round pebbles.
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| I am the little blur at the bottom of the chasm! |
Frog Pool Gorge was closed due to a geoseizmetic survey or something, but
we went down anyway, to a nice little pool at the end of the short gorge.
Then to Echidna Chasm. This was fantastic, a narrow gorge with towering walls, that just narrowed,
and narrowed. Towards the end it was just one meter wide! A bit of scrambling and climbing between the sheer walls, to the
head, where it just stopped. There was just a circle of blue above us, with a little palm tree at the top leaning over looking
down at us.Just brilliant.
We drove back to the next campsite, then on to a lookout hill on the west
of the range where we could see the sunset illuminate the entire range ahead of us. A great show, but I missed my perfect
photo, due to a drunk idiot who could not work a camera. Grrrr.
The next day we drove back out along the bumpy road back to the highway,
where Eric dropped me off and said Farewell. He was continuing south, I had to go back up North. So I set myself at the side
of the road again, to wait. In about 10 minutes though, the couple we had been chatting to the evening before drove up. I
had been dropping hints left, right and centre to anyone who was going back to Kunanarra, they obviously misunderstood me,
cos they were surprised to see me, but told me to jump in! Great! They were a funny couple, both hairdressers on holiday from
Melbourne. We had a great trip, and they were even booked into the campsite I was staying at - door to door service!
Met back up with Karl and Norma, and was releived to see they hadn't stolen
Oscar and ditched me! They had not got fruit picking work, which was a possibilty (I think they got distracted by the swimming
pool!) so we agreed to move on.
We drove East, and left Western Australia (which was quite sad) and entered the Northern Territory.
We arrived in Katherine, and met up with Sas and Paul again, and also their visiting friends Kim and
William.
At the campsite we discovered the local hotsprings just by the back gate, lovely! Crystal clear water
flowing in a stream, with a couple of pools to wallow in.
The main activity here, though, was Katherine Gorge. Norma ,Karl and I booked a full day canoe hire
for the next day. Sas, Paul, William and Kim had booked the half day.
For the rest of the day I visited a couple of hotels to raid their lost
property boxes, in search of a phone charger, (I had been doing this in nearly every town!) And finally! I found a motorola
one!! Success. I could at last check all the calls and texts I had missed - how many were waiting for me?? Not one, nadda,
zip, zilch. Talk about feeling unloved!!
The next day we drove out to Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge, and collected our kayaks and bundled our
stuff in the waterproof barrels (bit of a squeeze) and set off on the Katherine River. Splendid. A huge gorge,wider thanl
the others. There were sandy beaches dotted all the way along but it was Crocodile nesting season,and not a good time to be
disturbing them!
We happily floated along, then met the first challenge, a portage over a rocky shallow, I was Ok cos
I was just in a single kayak, but everyone else was in a double. There was a tour group ahead of us, and it was highly comical
watching them all flounder about on the rocks trying to wield the long kayaks.
Further on I saw the tour group looking at something, I joined in, apparently it was a water
snake (very venomous!). I just saw it disappear.
Further on I was merrily paddling on my own, when I suddenly spotted another snake swimming directly
infront of me. I froze - my kayak did not!
I ran straight over it - oops! It was then hiding underneath my kayak somewhere, I occasionally saw
a tail disappear behind, or under me. I couldn't move forwards (my paddles were hoisted into the air like a big jessie). Eventually
I eased away, and left him playing dead, and made my get away - phew!
There were a few more rock bars, and we made it up to the recomended limit for the single day trip. I
visited a fantastic swimming hole, just up a branching gorge, and had a lovely swim and lunch.
Then time to return.
We met S,P,W and K at the second rock bar, content just to have a splash about rather than lug
the kayaks any further. We all set off back home together (William and Kim having a bit of an adventure in the first rock
bar - trickier than they thought!)
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| I still need a wee. |
| Me and a termite mound |
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| Im the one on the right |
Then all back to the Hot Springs one last time.
We left Katherine and stopped off at Edith falls for a beautiful swim and walk, meeting the dutchies
again! We ended up spending the whole day there, swimming in the large rock pool at the top of the falls, and then in the
large lake at the bottom. Lovely!
Then on to Litchfield National Park. We spent a great day here, visiting a variety of waterfalls and
rock pools, having a dip in each of them. Most tranquil. At Wangi falls there was a deep pothole half way up the falls that
gets heated up by the sun - lovely! We saw some 1 meter goanas wandering about too, I was having a good look, until one of
them started lunging at me. the other went for a wander in the gents toilets, we were just waiting for the scream!
There were some enormous termite mounds here too, we had seen them all the way up the west coast,
but they gradually change shape as you travel. In Exmouth they were small stumps, in the Kimberly they were big, fat round
lumps, then here were the 'magnetic termite mounds' ( long thin mounds alined with the earths longitude, so they aways face
the sun - I was disappointed not to find magnetic termites!) and then the enormous 'cathedral' termite mounds.
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| Rolferoos ! |
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